Beautiful Bali...a tropical paradise! Part One

I would be less than honest if I didn't tell you that we were not excited about coming to Bali.  After three months of intense heat, we were thinking that a cool spring in Europe was just what the doctor ordered.  I expressed my feelings about that in a text to my BF Sande...and as she was sitting back in the states experiencing yet another long, cold Wisconsin winter..she was not exactly sympathetic.  Her reply to me was the following..."Well, a resort in Bali sounds like a fantasy to most people, so I cannot find it in my heart to feel too sorry for you."  Of course she was right.  Anyone who suffers through winter in the Midwest would understandably have the same reaction.  Plus...I sounded totally ungrateful at the opportunity I was about to be given.  Shame on me.    

The truth is, the city of Ubud can often look like paradise, once you escape the crazy traffic and throngs of tourists that swarm its streets.  Of course, it helps tremendously that we are staying at a lovely place, Murni's Houses and Spa, which has a fascinating history, and, is located in the heart of the city.  Murni's Houses are owned by Murni, a woman who grew up very poor in the same area where her beautiful guest houses stand today.  (I like to think of her as the Oprah of Ubud.)  When she was a little girl this area was surrounded by terraced rice paddies.  Her grandparents and father were farmers who worked those fields, while her mother bartered for rice...and later became a successful business woman.   

As a young woman back in the early 70's, Murni opened one of the very first restaurants and shops in the area.  It's hard to imagine what Ubud must have looked like back then, because today it is a thriving city with hundreds of shops and restaurants lining the streets.   Murni still owns that same restaurant today, along with a gift shop, spa, villa, and her Houses that offer 12 guest rooms.  A New York Times travel writer once called it one of the world's ten best small hotels in the world, and for good reason.  When you stay with Murni she treats you as part of her family.  She will sit and visit with you...and with a little bit of encouragement, she will tell you stories about her life when she was growing up in Bali.  And...if you ask...she will even share stories about sitting on the beach and talking with a young Mick Jagger during the 1960's.  (Lance had read about this in a book and wanted to hear more about it.)                  

         

Our own private veranda with a beautiful view of the surrounding area.

Our bedroom

The temple umbrella that hangs above our bed

The following photos were all taken on the grounds of her property.  Staying here is almost feels like living in an art museum.  In fact, Murni is known to have one of the biggest collections of art from Indonesia.    

Two years ago a new building and small swimming pool was added to the complex.
This year she is moving the spa and expanding its size.  

Below are a few pictures of Murni's restaurant.  It is located in a wooded area along the river.  The building has four stories...which includes a bar, three different levels for diners, and a gift shop.  The restaurant is just a ten minute walk from the guest Houses...but food can be delivered to you if you prefer.    

Recently, Murni invited us to take part in a cleansing ceremony for her home that takes place every 210 days.  It was performed by the local priest in her families Hindu temple.  The preparation for this scared ceremony took more than 2 weeks.  We were honored to be her guests.  After the ceremony typical food from Bali was served.  Traditionally they eat with their hands...but the guests were given the option of using forks.  

Murni with her grandchildren and great granddaughter.  

Murni, her partner, Jonathan...on the far right...and some of the other guests staying at the guesthouse.

  

During our stay in Bali, we have taken advantage of a hiking trail that is located close to where we are living.  We get up at six in the morning to beat the heat and enjoy a scenic hike on the trail.  Here are some of the sights along the way... 

The sun just beginning to rise.

The trail we hike on along the ridge.

Interesting clouds in the sky.  It looked like a painting.

If you look hard you can see the mountain in the distance.

Rice paddies

Many artists live in the area and we see many paintings and wood carvings for sale.  

We pass several beautiful rental homes and hotels along the way.

The trail takes us to a small village.  One day while passing by one of the homes we noticed a sign on the outside of a house that advertised juice and coffee.  We were invited in and given a tour of their property.  The father was a painter and wood carver and the oldest son was a gardener.  The younger son spoke English and worked at a hotel in Ubud.   They were very welcoming and it was fun to sit and talk with the youngest son.  Below are pictures of their family compound.  

Most families in Bali have a Hindu temple on their property.  

There were several Bonsai trees on their property.  

Fresh pineapple and watermelon juice.  Yum!

One of the best things we've done while staying in Bali was a tour of the rice paddies given by a young farmer named Guru.  Guru taught us about the process of growing rice and also shared with us information about other customs in Bali.  For example, as the youngest son in his family, he is expected to care for his parents.  Most of the rice he grows is used to feed his household of seven people.  Guru was very friendly and we really enjoyed spending the afternoon with him.  The fields look beautiful and it was interesting  to watch the farmers at work.  At the end of the tour we enjoyed rice pudding with ice cream.  It was very tasty.   

No...it's not raining...Lance is just trying to hide from the sun.

One of many temples located in the fields.

Of course we always enjoy a visit to the local art museum.  Here are just a few photos from their collection.

And...I always enjoy a Shadow Puppet Show.  This one was done with a real flame behind the screen.  Shadow theatre has existed for more than two thousand years.  The puppeteer we saw had two assistants that quickly handed him the puppets he used for the show.      

That brings our first week in Bali to a close.  We have six more days before we depart for Romania.  Watch for Part Two which will tell about our second week in Bali.