Life in Kotor...Week 2

Thursday, August 30th, marks our second full week in this beautiful city.  We are still experiencing very hot weather, so we have a new routine to avoid the heat.  Lance and I get up early...around 6:00 in the morning...to do our daily walk.  At that time of day, the traffic is light, and the temperature is much more pleasant.  On our way we always pass the fruit and vegetable market as they are setting up for the day.

And...we usually see a person or two fishing.

On this particular day, we decided to walk up the coast and go as far as we could get in two hours.  Then...we hopped the Blue Line bus for 1 Euro, and took it back to town.  During our extended walk we saw some interesting buildings...   

  

and some small towns that we haven't seen before.  We never grow tired of the views here. 

At the end of our walk we will often stop at the fruit and vegetable market or grocery store to get any food that we need for the day.  Our refrigerator is very small (think dorm size,) so it doesn't pay to buy too much in advance.  Then we head for home, shower, and get dressed.  Below is a picture of our tiny studio apartment.  That is our bed/couch to the left and dining room table and kitchen to the right.  There is also a bathroom, built in closet, and dresser.  We usually have the shutters closed and the air conditioner on...which tends to make the space look even smaller.     

During the middle of our day we lay low...and usually work on our computer or iPad at a local bar that is air conditioned... 

or the restaurant located below our apartment.  We only use that space in the afternoon after the lunch crowd is gone.    

When the sun starts to set we go out again for a shorter evening walk.  Sometimes we stop for a glass of wine or cola at a seaside restaurant or bar to enjoy the view...then head for home.  Such is the life of a full time traveler.

Of course there are some days that we do something special.  This past week we made a visit to the Maritime Museum in Kotor.  Here are some of my favorite pieces from the museum...a wooden bust of a woman that was once mounted on the front of a sailboat...a collection of bronze plaques that tell the history of Kotor...and three tiny figures inside a clock.  This museum had a nice variety of exhibits and we enjoyed our time there.     

One day when we were walking through town, we saw a handmade poster for a fish and wine festival...so we decided to check it out.  After a little research by Lance...we discovered that we could take the city bus to Stoliv for 1 Euro.  

The festival didn't start until 9:00 in the evening...but we left a little early to check out the town.  The ride up the coast was fun because we got to see all kinds of little resorts along the way.  Surprisingly, the fish and wine were free for anyone who attended.  We passed on the fish...but enjoyed a glass of watered down wine, while watching the band play music that sounded like the polka music we often heard in Wisconsin.  It was a fun experience and it gave us a chance to see how the locals throw a party.  

Of course there is always some unexpected fun to be had in town.  The other day while walking home we got to see a rehearsal for a high end fashion show that was going to take place that evening in one of the town squares.

 And...we also saw some folk dancers putting on a demonstration...

A few days ago, we finally decided it was time to hike to Kotor's Castle of San Giovanni.  It is 1355 steps to the top...so we got up early to beat the heat and headed to the entrance.  Luckily, there are stairs that lead to the top of the fortress.  

Below are pictures of the view as we ascended the stairs.

A hour and a half later we made it to the top.

Along the way we took the time to visit a small chapel and explore some of the dilapidated buildings.

At night the trail leading up to the fortress is lit up and looks enchanting.  The wall you see at the bottom of the picture surrounds the town.  It makes the hillside appear shorter, but in reality it is quite high.     

    

We also did a private tour on a boat.  We elected to take the tour at night because we wanted to avoid the heat.  

First we headed to two islands.  The first one is called Our Lady of the Rocks.  It received that name because on July 22,1452, some local seamen found an icon of the Madonna and Child on a rock in the bay.  Since that discovery, every year on July 22nd,  local seamen would line up their boats to lay a rock in the bay.  It took over two centuries, but eventually it built up to be an island. This custom still takes place today. The church that was built on this island contains paintings and a tapestry.  Unfortunately, it was closed by the time we arrived.  However, we plan to return by city bus next week so that we can see the inside of the church.     

The lighthouse located on Our Lady of the Rocks.

Saint George is the name of the second island.  This island is not man made.  There is a church also located on Saint George, along with some private apartments that are still used today.    

We also got the opportunity to tour the tiny town of Perast, which is located near the islands.  This is a delightful little town that has undergone some restoration during the last few years.  It has a number of high end restaurants and hotels and looked absolutely charming.  We had the opportunity to visit for about an hour before heading back to Kotor.     

As we returned on the boat, the stars began to fill the sky.  What a treat!  I haven't seen stars like that for a long time.

  

        

The Sarajevo Film Festival....and...Beautiful Kotor, Montenegro!

During our last week in Sarajevo, we had the opportunity to attend the Sarajevo Film Festival.  It was a wonderful event and we had a great time.  Over two hundred movies were presented...and over half were written, directed, and/or produced by women.  We attended 12 movies throughout the week and only 1 was not to our liking.  All the films had English subtitles.  Following each movie the audience was often able to attend a "talk back" session with the director, producers and actors from the film that was presented.  This was a chance for the audience to ask questions and/or make comments about the film.  

Our favorite venues were the ones that were held outside at nighttime.  The temperature was pleasant and the films were well attended.  Even though one of the venues held more than 3,000 seats...during the movie it was surprisingly quiet...with everyone respectfully listening to the film and no one moving about.  

People above and below waiting for the film to begin.  Popcorn and drinks are sold to anyone who is interested.

Opening night at the festival was a huge affair, with red carpet treatment for the directors, stars and producers.  There was a real party atmosphere on the street that included rock bands, spotlights, and many people dressed in beautiful evening gowns and stylish suits.  

The National Theater, pictured below, was our other favorite venue.  It is a beautiful theater that was recently restored to it's former glory.  It was also a close walk from our home.  We have attended many film festivals in the past...but this was definitely one of the best.  Hopefully, we will have the opportunity to come back someday in the future.    

After the festival we headed to Kotor, Montenegro on a bus.  Three years ago we happened to see a picture of this place and immediately knew it was a city we wanted to visit in person.  We have not been disappointed.  The ride in was breathtaking with gorgeous views of the bay and surrounding mountains.  We are staying in the historic old town from the middle ages.  This area has lots of hotels, bars and restaurants...many of them upscale.  Most visitors here are from the surrounding countries, and almost everyone here speaks English.    

Big cruise ships come during the day...but all seem to be gone by late afternoon.  However...when the passengers from those ships hit the town, the population nearly doubles in size.  Below is a variety of pictures from the old town and surrounding area.    

The stone wall that surrounds the historic old town.

Below are three photos of buildings from across the bay that we strolled past on our morning walk.  Lance and I are partial to the house with the turquoise door and windows.  

Last Saturday...August 18th...was Boca Night...Kotor's biggest event of the year.  It is a huge boat festival that takes place first on the bay, then in the historic old town.  Numerous bands set up all over the town and many of the restaurants remove their dinning tables and bring in bar tables to make more room.  Thousands of people attend this special event.  Below are two pictures of the town preparing for the onslaught of people.   

At 9:00 P.M. people gather at the dock to see the boat parade.  Spotlights are hung to illuminate the boats as they sail by, and huge speakers blare local music while many people wait in anticipation.  First, young children in small sailboats are towed in a long line behind a larger sailboat.        

Next, a boat with a local band sails past...

and finally, a variety of boats decorated in a variety of ways sail on by.  It appears to be a contest...although I am not sure how they are judged or what the participants win.  

After the boats parade past a number of times...fireworks fill the sky.  

Then the real party begins in the old town.  We had a hard time squeezing into the main gate of the walled city as a crush of people headed in the same direction.  Lance and I spent a few hours roaming around listing to a variety of bands...many playing American music...before heading for home.  The music lasted well past 2, but when we awoke early the next morning the town was clean and put back together as though nothing had ever taken place there.  If you are a traveler, we strongly suggest a visit to this beautiful city.  I promise you will not be disappointed.