Monday, November 19, 2018

Zagreb, Croatia

For Lance and I, there is nothing more fun than visiting a big, cosmopolitan city.  Surprisingly, Zagreb qualifies as that very thing.  Many of the old buildings here have been beautifully restored, and, there are dozens of lovely restaurants and cafe's located throughout the city center. In fact, the cafe culture here is so strong that you can find people year round drinking coffee in outdoor facilities.  Blankets are available for the customers to wrap up in and plenty of heater lamps are placed in each cafe to help keep their customers warm.  On Saturday, it is a local tradition for people to visit the cafe's in their finest clothes.  It's a place where you want to see and be seen. 


   
Along with the cafe's and restaurants, there are plenty of hip and trendy clothing shops artfully displaying the latest fashions in their windows.  The city also has many parks close by that provide much needed green space.  And...there are no shortage of trams available to take you around the city.  

The highlight in Zagreb is the Christmas season.  For the past three years they have been voted the best Christmas city in Europe.  While we were there in November, we saw the city workers busily preparing the city with Christmas lights and decorations.  Each area of the city has it's own theme and decorations.  There is also a huge skating ring erected in the plaza near the train station.  Unfortunately, we had to leave before the display was completed.  However, we will definitely return some year to see it in all it's glory. 


Esplanade Hotel Zagreb
This luxury hotel was built in 1925 to accommodate guests of the Orient Express.


The local guide who gave us an informative tour of the city.
Gric Tunnel located in the city center that was formerly used during World War II
Hotel Dubrovnik

Recently refurbished buildings found on the main city square in downtown Zagreb.

Kumica respresents the "godmothers" from the countryside who sell produce at the farmers market.  Our tour guide told us most locals have a favorite "godmother" that they frequent to buy their produce.  
Kumica 

Zrinjevac Park...where many government buildings are located, including the Zagreb Supreme Court

It's the middle of November, and the markets are still full of produce.  We were told that the outdoor vegetable markets stay open all year round.  

Dolac market
Archaeological Museum
Above and Below...paintings from The Croatian Museum of Naive Art


Art Pavilion...and below...some of the paintings that are currently on exhibition.



Above and Below...the Zagreb Cathedral...built in the 13th century

Two chandeliers brought back from Las Vegas, NV for the Zagreb Cathedral
St. Marks Church...completed in the 13th century...reconstructed in the 14th century


Above and Below...The Zagreb Botanical Garden
Roses still blooming in mid November

Below are photos taken at Mirogoj Cemetery.  National Geographic listed it among one of the five most beautiful cemeteries in Europe.  We arrived about a week after All Saints Day.  Thousands of people visit Mirogoj on this religious holiday to place flowers and light candles on the graves of their loved ones.  The cemetery features arcades, domed gatehouses and pavilion chapels.    






One of the reasons we planned a side trip to Zagreb was to attend their film festival.  This marks our second film festival in the Balkans this year.  This festival was much smaller than the one we attended in Sarajevo.  



Below is a picture of one of the most popular colors used to dye hair in the Balkans.  I have seen numerous women throughout this region with hair this color.  










Friday, November 9, 2018

Saying a fond farewell to Split

We are approaching our last few days in Split...and yet, we continue to find new places to explore in this lovely city.  Recently, we discovered the walkway along the sea that extends beyond the city center.  We were delighted to take this walk on a warm Sunday morning in early November.  



As we hiked along Lance and I were surprised to see that the locals are still enjoying a swim at the beach.  


Upon our return toward town, we saw a pretty cafe at the top of a hill.  We climbed up to order a drink and enjoy the beautiful view.



Everyday we still walk in our favorite place, Marjan Forest Park.  Recently, we went in a new direction and discovered a whole different side of the park.  


We were amazed to see that the gardens are still producing all kinds of vegetable plants in November.



It was interesting to see these buildings built into the side of the cliffs.



It also seems to be a favorite place for rock climbers to practice their craft.


As you hike along the bottom of the south side of the park you will eventually run into an art museum that houses sculptures created by the Croatian artist, Ivan Mestrovic.  You can find his sculptures in many different countries...including the United States.  






Of course, Lance is always happy to stop at a cafe for a cup of coffee.  This cafe is located on the grounds of the museum.  


And...if you hike the opposite direction of the museum, you will find another portion of the park that has a beach for swimming during the summer months.  There is also a cafe/restaurant located there.  All of it is simply delightful.    









We finally saw some Christmas decorations the other day as we headed up to the park.  It's the first hint we had that the holidays will soon be upon us.  Surprisingly, none of the stores are decorated.   


Lance and I will miss Split.  It is a lovely city that offers you all kinds of wonderful things to do.  We will especially miss our daily walks here, and hope our next location will serve us as well.  We are already planning a return visit...and hope to stay on one of the many islands found in this area.  It's a beautiful place to live.